Acceso usuarios
Pedro Dourado
, Carmen Llovet Rodríguez, Cristina Gallego Gómez
La industria de la moda es la segunda más contaminante a nivel mundial, lo que hace que incorporar la responsabilidad social corporativa (RSC) en las estrategias de comunicación de las marcas sea esencial en moda de autor por su enfoque en la producción artesanal, local, y su compromiso con la durabilidad. Ante la tendencia del greenhushing, donde las marcas ocultan sus esfuerzos de sostenibilidad para evitar riesgos reputacionales, las acciones de marketing y comunicación tienen cada vez mayor protagonismo en la relación entre RSC y reputación. En concreto, las páginas web son una herramienta eficaz para promover la transparencia y construir legitimidad en el cuarto sector. Este estudio tiene como objetivos específicos analizar por primera vez en la literatura académica las estrategias de comunicación de sostenibilidad de las marcas de moda de autor en España a través de sus páginas web y evaluar las percepciones de los diseñadores españoles sobre la RSC en sus procesos empresariales. Para ello se ha utilizado como metodología un análisis de contenido de 41 páginas web de marcas que participaron en la Madrid Fashion Week (septiembre 2022 y febrero 2023) y entrevistas semi-estructuradas a sus representantes. Los resultados revelaron que el 68% de las marcas comunican sostenibilidad, aunque solo el 3,57% lo hace de manera prominente. Es decir, un 90% de las marcas sólo utilizan una o dos páginas para transmitir esta información, principalmente en formato textual. Los diseñadores enfatizaron que el verdadero cambio radica en que las personas que consumen inviertan en productos de mayor calidad y más duraderos. Para ello, señalan la necesidad de la educación en sostenibilidad en la comunicación digital, ya que existen marcas donde su modelo se basa en el triple impacto. Se recomienda a las marcas adoptar prácticas de comunicación transparente que aprovechen la sostenibilidad como ventaja competitiva.
The fashion industry is the second most polluting sector globally, drawing significant attention from environmentalists, politicians, investors, and consumers. The industry accounts for nearly 8% of global carbon emissions and 20% of worldwide wastewater, positioning it as a key target for environmental scrutiny. As sustainable development advances across various industries and consumer awareness increases, the focus on sustainability in decision-making has become imperative. Incorporating corporate social responsibility (CSR) and sustainability into the communication strategies of fashion brands is essential for addressing reputational risks and demonstrating genuine commitment, especially considering concepts such as triple bottom line. While fast, low-cost production dominates the fashion business, new alternatives that prioritize human and environmental resources are gaining prominence. Designer fashion stands as a compelling example, with its emphasis on handmade, local production, and a commitment to quality and durability, offering an effective association with sustainability. However, the sustainability communication strategies of designer fashion brands remain underexplored. Given the trend of greenhushing, where brands conceal sustainability efforts to avoid reputational risks, websites offer an effective tool for engaging stakeholders, promoting transparency, and building legitimacy. This study aims to: (1) analyze the sustainability communication strategies of designer fashion brands in Spain through their corporate websites and (2) assess Spanish designers’ perceptions of corporate social responsibility in their business processes. A content analysis of 41 designer fashion brand websites that participated in Madrid Fashion Week (September 2022 and February 2023) revealed that 68% of brands communicate sustainability, although only 3.57% do so prominently on their homepage. Most brands (90%) use one to two pages to convey this information, primarily in textual form (only 25% include multimedia content). Brands addressing sustainability were further investigated through five semi-structured interviews, focusing on creative processes, production methods, communication tools, and the importance of sustainability-related concepts. While brands reported challenges, such as the scarcity of sustainable fabric suppliers and the higher cost of raw materials impacting final product prices, they remain committed to sustainability. However, they emphasized that true change lies with consumers: reducing consumption and investing in higher-quality, longer-lasting products is crucial. Education on sustainability was considered vital, and the designers agreed on the need for digital communication to play a key role in this effort. By fostering transparency, these brands aim to combat greenwashing – the misrepresentation of sustainability claims – and position themselves as leaders in sustainable fashion. In terms of practical implications, brands are encouraged to adopt transparent communication practices in compliance with European directives against greenwashing. Failure to do so can lead to a loss of consumer trust. Brands should develop clear strategies that leverage sustainability as a competitive advantage. Future research should focus on studies related to social media, given the significant importance brands place on this tool. Additionally, research on consumer perceptions and the role of Marketing 3.0 is crucial, as it explores issues concerning the accessibility and appeal of communication from the consumer’s perspective. This research is limited by the fact that sustainability is not yet a decisive factor in consumer purchasing decisions, meaning that the fashion sector is not significantly penalized by consumers when they alter their practices.
